Day 108: Bears, Berries and Fair in Haines

July 31, 2014

Today was another beautiful day in Haines, Alaska!! It was 51 degrees when we got up, but then quickly warmed up to t-shirt weather. We are really enjoying this weather and this area.

We got up at 5:30 this morning so we could go out to Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Site to see if we could see the bears. The salmon come in from the Pacific Ocean through the Lutek Inlet to the Chilkoot River. The river is only about a mile or so long and flows out of Chikoot Lake where the salmon spawn. At least that is our understanding from the signs we read. There is a fish weir (fence) across the river with 2 openings for the fish to go through and they count the salmon and at some point each day catch a certain number in a net and tell their age by their scales then release them. This is all part of how they manage the salmon fishing to maintain an adequate supply of fish.

Fish Weir

Counting Fish

Anyway, where there are salmon there are frequently bears and the literature says you can frequently see the bears in the river here. Best viewing early morning and evening. Well, this morning we saw eagles at the bear viewing location, but no bears.

It was very pretty though. When we arrived there was a fairly heavy fog that cleared as the sun came over the mountain. Just beautiful. We hung out watching for bears for a while then headed back to Fred for breakfast.

Haines from across the water

We cooked breakfast outside again – pancakes. Great way to start the day! After feeling adequately nourished, we headed out of Haines about 20 miles to go hike the nature trail at the Eagle Preserve (and see the eagles.) Well, as luck would have it since we saw eagles at the bear viewing location, we saw a sow and 2 cubs on the way to the eagle viewing location. We just rounded a curve and there they were on the side of the road, about to walk in front of us. (Really didn't have to get up that early.) We, of course, stopped and the traffic from the opposite direction also stopped and we watched them cross the road, climb over the guard rail and go to the shore of the river. The water is really up and running fast due to all the rain and don't know if that was the problem or what because the sow only stayed on the river bank a minute then came back across the guard rail and back across the road. It's so much fun the see the bears - especially the cubs! By the way, for those that wonder – yes, we were very careful. They never got close enough to the truck to make us nervous.

She seemed to be trying to find a way to the fish wheel

Notice the color difference in the cubs

The light colored cub was always lagging behind and looks like it has lost track of its mama.

So, after that excitement we went on to the Preserve and hiked the 3 mile tail. Very nice, relaxing walk beside a different river. Scout got to go on this one and do a little swimming so he was happy too. We had been wanting to pick some raspberries and found some along the road near the trail. They were not as sweet as they looked.

The Southeast Alaska State Fair opened today in Haines and that's where we went this afternoon. We are told that the area may be crowded this weekend. After being there we can't really see that there would be a big draw. It is a good deal smaller that the Blount County Fair, but with some of the same types of displays. There were quilts, jellies, pictures, produce, etc for judging. There was only three rides – a carousel, a ferris wheel, and a train and a bounce house There were food vendors – although the foods are a little different than in Alabama we did see some of the same things like cotton candy – no funnel cakes or Oh So Good Barbeque. Some things were very different - like the Cooperative Extension Service handing out educational material on how to can moose and caribou. The entertainment for the weekend is suppose to be some big name bands, but we have no idea who they are talking about. Another bit of the culture of Alaska. We had hoped to go to the big Alaska State Fair in Palmer, but it isn't until late August and we will be well on our way home by then so this one will have to fill that spot.

Kids in hula hoops seem to be at all fairs in Alaska

We enjoyed a visit with a forecaster from the NWS office in Juneau.

We don't remember seeing a sushi booth at the Blount County Fair

The champion cabbage was not as big as we expected.

Of course, this was our favorite quilt.

Anyway – it was a fun and interesting day in a beautiful location. We are hoping for more of the same tomorrow.

Day 107: Kluane Lake to Haines, AK

July 30, 2014

Well it started raining again about midnight last night and was still raining when we woke at 6:00. There was some hard rain, but mostly just a moderate continuous rain. Crazy weather that we are having – our morning temperature was just a few degrees cooler than the Oneonta, Alabama temperature today. We are sure everyone at home is enjoying a break in the heat.

We had breakfast and then readied Fred for a travel day. We put everything away outside last night (thankfully since it was raining this morning), but had to do the inside this morning. It rained all the way to Haines Junction.

However, as soon as we turned off the Alaska Highway and headed south toward Haines the highway improved drastically and the weather began to improve as well. By the time we got to Haines we had bright sunshine and blue sky!! And even better that's the forecast here through the weekend. We were really surprised at how good the highway was to Haines. It was one of the best we have driven on since leaving the lower 48. When we left the Yukon and entered British Columbia the road was not quite as good but still much, much better than the Alaska Highway yesterday. We then re-entered Alaska and the road was still good. Yep, we started this morning in Yukon Territory, then entered British Columbia so we could then re-enter Alaska to go to Haines. All in the course of 197 miles. Thankfully, we again had an easy border crossing back into the US. For the first time today they asked for our papers on Scout. He had to have a physical and all his vaccinations up to date before we left home. We had everything ready to hand the agent as soon as he asked, answered the usual question about firearms and we were waved back into Alaska.

It was a really pretty drive today. The road to Haines is a National Scenic Highway but we know it would have been much more impressive with sunshine – but at least it had quit raining by then. We drove by many glaciers and through areas of alpine-like meadows. We also saw more snow capped mountains.

Just outside of Haines is the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. We pulled pulled over at one of the observation points and quickly saw an eagle out on one of the bars. Yes we know we have enough eagle pictures... but these are in a different location.

Fish wheel we saw operating just outside the Bald Eagle preserve

On into Haines we located Hitch-Up RV park, our home for the next several days. We have a grassy site and full hookups. Internet here is slow when it gets busy. After getting setup we took a walk into town.

Main Street, Haines

We walked down by the marina and found a Holland America cruise ship in port. It was the sister ship to the one we were on 8 years ago.

We enjoyed looking at the boats at the marina and then just walking around town and getting familiar with things. There is an IGA grocery store here, several restaurants, some bakeries, and of course some ice cream stands. Today we had soft serve vanilla which was almost like Dairy Queen and only $3.00. (We have become accustomed to much higher prices in Alaska.)

We also visited the world famous Hammer Museum. Actually, we just looked at the displays outside, but they were very interesting.

 

 

 

When we returned to the park a very interesting “RV”, “Tour Bus” pulled in. We had seen this bus while downtown but when it pulled in we just had to go take a look. This tour bus has over 20 people touring Alaska. We have heard German being spoken but don't know if it is an all German group. They set up camp much like we do just on a much larger scale. They all got off the bus with certain duties – like setting up tables and chairs for dinner, cooking dinner, etc. Those 26 windows on the side – that's where their beds are. The US folks here call it the coffin bus. We understand that these buses are used by European tour companies and yes, they all really sleep that close together.  At least these people are out traveling and seeing the world and from our observation have a great time doing it.

 

That's it for today. We are so thankful for the sunshine today. Tomorrow we plan to do some exploring in the area. There may be more bear and eagle pictures.

Day 106: Kluane Lake

July 29, 2014

Guess what. It rained again! Started raining about 2:00 am and rained until about 6 or 7:00 Then it cleared off and was bright and sunny by 8:00 am. The sun warmed up Fred coming in the front windshield facing beautiful Kluane Lake. This was the first day in a long time that we haven't had to have the furnace in the morning to knock the chill off when we had breakfast. It was a really nice breakfast looking out on to the lake. This is truly a beautiful campsite and setting. Unfortunately, the clouds came back in and it rained off and on most of the day. There were short periods of sunshine and blue skies as well.

We did get the boat out onto the water for 2 different paddling sessions. The wind was pretty blustery at times making for a little harder paddling into the wind, but nice floats back to the campsite. Scout always loves getting out into the water almost as much as we do. The water is very clear and the beach volcanic sand covered in small rocks. The lake bottom also rocky.

We also had some nice walks on the beach today. Klaune Lake covers 154 squares miles and is over 50 miles long and about 3.5 miles across at our location. The wind is currently blowing down toward the southern end of the lake where we are located so there are waves coming on shore all the time. It sounds like being at the beach when the ocean is calm. We have actually been at the beach when the ocean is calmer than this lake. Anyway, it makes for really good sleeping with the windows open just a bit. The lake is surrounded by mountains on all sides. Just beautiful! We had supper sitting outside on the lake shore again tonight. Such a peaceful and relaxing setting.

By the way – it actually got dark last night and we had a sunset and sunrise for the first time in weeks. We actually would have needed a flashlight outside last night. We are hopeful that it will be even darker in Haines. We know some people that saw the northern lights the second week of August last year from Haines. We would love to see those lights. We will move to Haines tomorrow and plan to be there for a week so with dark clear skies – who knows. It could happen. If so – you will, of course, see the pictures. Thanks to all of you who are praying for our continued safe travel.

Day 105: Tok to Kluane Lake

July 28,2014

Morning temperature was 43 degrees and partly cloudy.   The beginning of our journey back to Alabama.  The day became more and more sunny and ended with gorgeous blue skies and temps in the 60s. 

First things first, we went to 3 Bears grocery store and bought pastries for breakfast.   

Almost didn't get this picture in time

We visited some other 3 Bears in other parts of Alaska, but really didn't care much for them.  We liked this one in Tok when we were here in May, so just had to stop back on our way out of the main portion of Alaska.  We had to fuel up and fill our water tank this morning before leaving.  Fuel will just get more and more expensive now until we get back to the lower 48.  This morning it was $4.659 for diesel.  We will then fill again in Haines, AK.  Canada is not unusual to be well over 5.00 per gallon although it is sold by the liter and we have to convert to know what we are really paying.  Anyway, we buy as little as possible in Canada. 

The drive today is a new one for us since we took the Top of the World Highway into Alaska.  We had been told early in the season that Alaska Highway from Tok, Alaska to Burwash Landing, Yukon Territory was in bad shape but were hopeful they had time to make improvements by now.  However, when we called the campground to check on availability for a lakeside site this morning, the last thing she said was “Just take it slow.  You are going to have a long day and we will see you whenever you get here.”  We were afraid we knew what that meant.  And our fears were right on target.  The road was awful!  They are working on huge sections and you have to wait for pilot cars to go through areas where they have the road totally torn out.  Long sections are dirt, gravel, and rock.  And then there are the frost heaves that have not been repaired at all, and loose stone in areas where they have worked at repairing frost heaves.  Top of the World highway was bad in May.  It was really bad.  But this today was never ending bad.  The GPS told us it would take about 5.5 hours to make the drive so we figured on 6 in Fred, but with all the delays and the long stretches where we drove 15mph, it took 8 hours to drive it.  We didn't even stop for lunch.  We fixed sandwiches while we were waiting on a pilot car and ate them before we got to move.  We did stop several times to walk Scout and stretch our legs.  This stretch of highway also reminded us of the Dalton Highway to the Arctic because the pilot car had a flat tire like they kept having on that road.  I wonder how many tires they go through on these awful roads – one of the reasons we drive very slowly on the really bad sections.  Anyway, we are told that from here on the road is in much better condition.  We sure do hope so. 

Not a happy camper

In spite of the horrible road, we saw beautiful scenery today.  There are many lakes in this section of the drive and they are so pretty.  We also are back into the area of higher mountains so we again have snow capped peaks!  They are so pretty and so what you expect in the North.  There were also areas of nice healthy forest and then areas of permafrost where the trees were so puny they made us laugh.  In those areas of permafrost (and frost heaves) the power poles also suffered.  They were leaning all different directions.  We don't know how they keep the lines up with the poles like that.  They looked like a cartoon. 

We stopped at the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge Visitors Center to stretch our legs and take a little hike.  Much of the land we drove through early in the day was part of this refuge.  The people at the center insisted we take our bear spray on the hike as they have been seeing bears.  Of course we saw none.  We remembered this place from our previous trip. 

The only wildlife we saw on the trail

We had to cross back into Canada today and again the crossing was fast and efficient.  We were asked four questions.  Destination?  Kluane Lake today, then Haines.  Do we have any weapons or firearms?  No.  Do we have over $10,000.00 in cash with us? No, (I wish!)  Will we be leaving anything in Canada? No.  (other than some of our money).  We were told to have a good day and a good trip.  That was it.  Nice!  Interesting to us was the fact that the Canadian Port of Entry (customs) was actually about 20 miles into Canada at Beaver Creek, while the US Port of Entry was at the US border.  There was sort of a 20 miles no man's land the first 20 miles in Canada.  Guess it doesn't matter because you can only go straight down that one road.  There were no roads intersecting the Alaska Highway in that 20 miles so you can continue to Canada or turn around and go back into the US. 

We had to stop and do the usual photos at the international border.  We stopped at this same spot in 2006.   

After crossing the border we were in Beaver Creek.  We spent the night here at the West Mark Inn in 2006.  This is the place our friend Ralph got so sick with the GI bug that was going around that he had to stay there when we all left the next morning.  Fortunately, Holland American had another bus that picked him up the next day so he could join us before we got on the ship.  We thought he might like to see what it looks like today.  It is closed and we were told they were going to make it an RV park but today it just looked closed and boarded up. 

Tonight we are sitting Fred in looking out onto beautiful, blue, Kluane Lake.  It is surrounded by mountains, some of them snow capped.   

View out our front window

The campground does have WIFI, but it is SLOW satellite so it takes a long time to post the blog and we have to use small pictures.  They also said there was a grizzly in camp this morning so we can leave nothing outside and all garbage has to stay in the rig and leave with us to be deposited in cans in town.  We are in Canada so we are not using our phones at all.  We hope tomorrow is nice and sunny because we would love to inflate the boat and get out on the lake.  We plan to stay here tomorrow night so we can play all day tomorrow and then head to Haines.  We will let you know what we do – when we have connectivity. 

For RVers:

Young's Chevron in Tok allows overnight parking with fuel purchase. There is also a dump station here.